The Best of England and France in North America?

I went on a vacation/retreat to Quebec with my Jesus Caritas Group of priest friends.  All of my friends are foodies in their own right, having studied in Rome – a veritable cornucopia of Catholic culinary culture.

(Quebec Parliament from my hotel view.)

In this week’s E-mail Blast I offer some food and culture tips for one of the most unique “European” cities in North America.  Quebec City combines rustic European (in particular an old town French community) mixed with the polite civility of England (of course, not including the unfortunate recent riots).  The city is remarkably pristine, carefully manicured, and gentle in the friendliness of the people.  The architecture in the city center makes you feel like you’re in trapped in the 1800s, especially since the weekend we picked happened to coincide with their historical cultural celebrations.  The majority of local folks dressed in their native vesture, sang their traditional songs in the open squares, and proudly showcased their uniqueness in the world.

(For only $10 CAD you can have a picture taken with this guy.  I passed…but admired his efforts to dress like that on one of Quebec’s hottest summer days!)

But now on to the food!

In my limited research about Quebec Culture I couldn’t find anything particularly unique or interesting that I just “had” to try/eat/visit.  Besides the quaint fresh market where I purchased fresh produce for summer salads, I discovered that Quebec (like most of that part of Canada) proudly promotes their rich flavored maple syrup, which you can purchase in almost every store.  But, for the most part, the majority of French influenced restaurants served very recognizable dishes.

(Quiche and fries at a local spot along St. Jean (of Ark, that is.)

French onion soup (not as cheesy as Americans may prefer), croque-monsieur’s (a type of sandwich), quiche (of course), moules-frites (mussels and fries), and the rustic plate of steak frites (steak with fries) are all very popular and offered in almost every restaurant.  I especially enjoyed the fact that “French Fries” come standard with a side of mayonnaise for dipping! Which leads me to the question, which is healthier:  mayonnaise or ketchup?  Either way, perfectly fried potatoes still need a saucy accompaniment.

Most Quebec restaurants offered the plate of the day with “pre-fixed menus” to help the locals with their budget, but more to help tourists maneuver through a different language.  However, being a well-visited international city (although you could never tell by how quaint the Quebec airport really is), there were also many Italian restaurants, Irish pubs, a minority of Asian and Middle Eastern cuisine, several over-priced gelato stands, and even a famous fast food establishment in the city.  Okay, I saw a McDonald’s in the Old City, but it served some French foods!  Interestingly, there was not a Starbucks to be found anywhere, which made taking a coffee break an unnecessarily frustrating adventure for the caffeine inclined .

(Busy and bustling boulevard of St. Jean.)

Again, the Old Quebec City offered “typical” foods of a big city, served by incredibly pleasant people, with classic architectural buildings as a background for festive dining.  Still, I did a lot of cooking and took plenty of time to tour the city streets.  Cooking in gave us more time to relax and just be ourselves, but it also meant we ate delicious food for a fraction of the price.  Admitted by the local Quebecois, they live in a very expensive city.  A 15 % tax is imposed on everything – including food.  While it made it painful to offer a 20% tip to the wait staff, I discovered that patrons’ tips seriously help supplement a low income for restaurant workers.

I got the impression that the food culture in Quebec was not as much of a priority, as I sensed it was in France and other French-influenced U.S. cities like New Orleans and Historic South Carolina.  Yet the people of Quebec certainly do want to make it a “part” of their cultural focus, which seems to focus more on the hope for future sovereignty and the strict use of the French language.

(Yes, you too can read French…subtitles, that is.)

While this city had many restaurants to review, I found two that left quite a positive impression on me.  Le Cochon Dingue (The Crazy Pig), with a few locations in the historic part of Quebec served all types of rustic French cuisine with a twist – such as an “egg roll” filled with duck confit and served with Christmas color sauces of basil pesto and cranberry compote – a bright combination that worked well with the fattiness of the duck.  Another restaurant to recommend is “Le Moulin de Saint-Laurent” on the island of Ile d’Orleans – a 15 minute drive from the city center.

(Duck confit “egg rolls” at Le Cochon Dingue.)

With the exception of these two dining venues, and simply trying to be honest in my restaurant reviews, I admit being slightly underwhelmed by Quebec food.  I was hoping for flavor, but wound up adding salt and pepper to almost every meal.  I really wanted to go out to eat, but just didn’t feel compelled by the menu options, the way the food looked, and especially the price.  A comment made over the trip summed it up:  “Quebec cuisine originated from France, but the seasoning and preparation seems to have been taken over by England.”

(A buffet of brunch foods I made with the “leftovers” on the last day!)

My honest impression of the food, however, doesn’t mask the positive impression I had of the city.  It was beautiful and bustling.  The churches, although mainly tourist spots, had schedules that showed devotion and faith.  And I suspect that part of the Quebec culture can use more inspiration from the new Canadian Saint, Andre Besset.

(Interior of the Catholic Cathedral in Quebec.)

I also noted the number of families with young children – always a sign of hope!  While I’ll be prepared to rent another house with a kitchen – so I can do plenty of cooking – I must say this visit inspired me to return, and hopefully stay longer so I can more seriously explore the food culture.  Au revoir.

(Quebec family going back in time with the “latest” fashions.)

FYI:  One of the three historic buildings in Quebec City is the Notre Dame Cathedral.  The city’s spiritual roots are evident in the number of streets and stores that are named after Saints.  When you explore a city, find out the faith history, and be sure to say a prayer for the local people.  It helps vacationers find a connection with the locals.  Remember, a grace-filled prayer can transform a strange land into a home away from home, as it did for the first French settlers in this Northern part of North America.

God our Father, bless the faith and the people of Quebec.  May their patron saints continue to inspire the people of “New France” so to imitate their virtues and become saints themselves.  Bless those continuing to travel in these remaining summer days, and help our families to experience Your goodness in their journeys.  Amen.

(The Oratory, where Saint Andre Besset is buried.)

To get the review of a great restaurant, Le Moulin de Saint-Laurent, click here!

QUESTION:  Where did you go on vacation?  Did you find a good place to eat?  Please tell us what city you traveled to and the name of a restaurant that you’d recommend in that city.  Or, if you live in a busy tourist area, what restaurant would you encourage people to try?  Your response will definitely be a helpful travel tip for me and our members.  AND, if you’re interested in being a contributor restaurant critic, please contact the Grace Before Meals project manager for details and for special gifts I send for each entry that is used and posted in future E-mail Blasts. Post your answers below!

Posted in Faithful Foodie, Grace Before Meals, Restaurants, vacation | 5 Comments